Portland Spoke – The Official Blog of Travel Portland

Random notes on some recent experiences — an exhibition, a play and a hike – filled with dramatic peaks (both figurative and literal) that are rooted in history and culture, and enriched by the written word:

• In his insightful review of The Body Beautiful in Ancient Greece — on view at the Portland Art Museum through Jan. 6 – Bob Hicks of Oregon Arts Watch reminds us that “it was a painted urn, after all, that inspired Keats to poetry.”  And while seeing The Discobolus might conjure up memories of a long-ago art history class, Hicks notes that “You can’t bring back the past. You can only glimpse it and try to understand it, dimly. Still, The Body Beautiful reminds us that a great deal of what began in Greece is still a vital part of us.”
• Earlier this month, Hicks waxed poetic about August Wilson, who wrestles with a more recent past in Seven Guitars, part of Wilson’s 10-play cycle that illuminates the African-American experience. The terrific production at Artists Repertory Theatre runs through Nov. 11. (A quick side note for fans of Wilson: Portland Playhouse will stage King Hedley II Dec. 6-30).

Ruckel Creek Trail

• I was lucky enough to catch a Friday-night performance of Seven Guitars, followed a couple of days later by a hike in the Columbia River Gorge, where I covered a portion of the Ruckel Creek Trail. It’s a challenging climb, but one that yields a particularly nice reward, best described by the great William L. Sullivan: a “strange, hummocky, moss-covered rockslide” pockmarked with pits that “were dug at least 1,000 years ago, evidently as vision quest sites for young Indian men.” For further inspiration — plus helpful maps and deft descriptions — check out Sullivan’s indispensible guidebook, 100 Hikes in Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington.

Image courtesy of the Hood River County Chamber of Commerce

Seated at the confluence of the Columbia River and the fertile Hood River Valley, the town of Hood River is perfectly positioned to allow visitors to pick and choose from exhilarating activities and delicious food. These two offerings are highlighted each year with the Hood River Harvest Fest (Oct. 19-21). The weekend-long, old-fashioned fall celebration has been happening for 30 years and offers many ways to get a taste of Oregon, no matter which flavor is your favorite. (more…)

In my opinion, the closest waterfall to Portland is also one of the most beautiful. Latourell Falls is just 30 minutes from downtown, about 3 miles West of I-84 exit 28 along the historic highway. The lower falls are visible from just past the parking lot, from where you’ll also find a paved path to the base. For the slightly more adventurous, there’s a 2.5 mile (500′ elevation) looping trail to the upper falls. One benefit to the recent spate of heavy rain in the area is that the waterfalls in the gorge have swelled to torrents, making the view even more spectacular than normal. Get your boots on!

Image courtesy of hoodriver.org

You probably already know that many fabulous wineries and tasting rooms can be found in Washington County and the Willamette Valley. But, recently, I was pleasantly surprised to discover how many wonderful tasting rooms there are in downtown Hood River, about 60 miles east of Portland in the Columbia River Gorge.

I haven’t spent much time in downtown Hood River, and I loved how walkable everything was. I planned this excursion for a couple of friends who were visiting from out of town. If I can plan a successful trip, so can you — or just use my list as a starting point. (more…)

I was charmed and surprised by a recent walk through downtown Troutdale.

Often overlooked by those zooming through the Gorge, or overshadowed by nearby McMenamins Edgefield, this section of the Historic Columbia River Highway feels like an old-time Main Street, and is a picturesque holiday shopping destination.

Here’s what I found:

1. Troutdale General Store: With its overflowing baskets of taffy, cases of candy, piles of gifts for kids and adults, old-fashioned ice cream counter and seasonal decorations, this place is a destination unto itself.

2. Celebrate Me Home: A beautiful home store with decor, gifts, housewares and a cozy deli serving hot cider, espresso and homemade quiche.

Vintage posters at Troutdale Antique Mall

3. Troutdale Antique Mall: 60+ sellers display their wares throughout two floors. From highly collectible glassware to bargain jewelry, there is something here for every treasure hunter.

Outside the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center

If you’ve only seen The Dalles from Highway 84, you have no idea what it really looks like. Or what it feels like, or what you might find there. When I took a day trip there last week from Portland, I was surprised to make many pleasant discoveries. These are my top five:

1. The Dalles only gets 15 inches of rain per year. It is the closest point to Portland with this kind of arid climate, meaning sunny days and rolling hills for cyclists and explorers.

2. As one of the oldest settlements on the West Coast, The Dalles is steeped in history, and the residents are proud to preserve it. A visit to Wasco County Historical Museum, and the Fort Dalles Museum reveal collections of well-preserved buildings, wagons and artifacts that give insight into the cultural history of the gorge and the settlement of the American West.

Sunshine Mill, Quenett Winery's Tasting Room

3. Many of the historic buildings downtown are working businesses, so visitors can take a step back in time while having fun in the present. A few examples are the Baldwin Saloon, Clocktower Ales and the Sunshine Mill (as featured in the May issue of Sunset magazine). (more…)

Bob Dylan and his band playing to a sold-out crowd.

I can’t believe I’ve lived in Portland as a music lover for years, and JUST went to my first concert at Edgefield last night. What a show, and what a venue! This year’s summer concert series at Edgefield features living legends like Bob Dylan and Willie Nelson, as well as hot young bands like Vampire Weekend. There are still a few more shows to come until mid-September, but music fans should make a note to check out the calendar in the spring in anticipation for next summer.

With the McMenamins Edgefield hotel and winery on-site, signature groovy character and festival-like (yet intimate) setting, this outdoor venue is a destination in itself. In the winter months, check out the smaller live music shows (like the Small Batch Tours series) in the Edgefield hotel, sip a pint of McMenamins brew and soak in the artful atmosphere.

City of Hood River and Mount Hood. Photo by Peter Marbach.

Like most people, I’ve got a list. Driving through Hood River on our move west nearly a decade ago, windsurfing on the Columbia was added to the list. Fast-forward eight years, substitute the newest craze of stand-up paddling (SUP) for windsurfing, and I’ve now checked “Getting on the Columbia in Hood River” off my list.

I wasn’t sure how hard SUP would be — my only real knowledge of it was seeing Hollywood fit gals Cameron Diaz and Kate Hudson in the gossip mags cruising on long boards with paddles in Hawaii. And, with no photo to prove it, I am pretty sure I looked just like them on the water (minus the fit and Hawaii parts). At least that’s how I picture it. (more…)

Short climb, nice reward: Bert and Luke at Upper Horsetail Falls.

Bert and I celebrated a late-June vacation day with a quick trip to the Gorge, where we took our first mini-hike with Luke, our 11-week-old son.

From Portland, it’s about a 30-minute drive on I-84 East to Exit 28, which brings you to the Historic Columbia River Highway — and a nice selection of moderate hikes, including Multnomah Falls and the popular Angel’s Rest. (For details, see this this helpful map.)

Our itinerary that day: a brown-bag lunch at the Wahkeena Picnic Area, followed by a couple of short walks (one up to Wahkeena Falls, and one from Horsetail Falls to Upper Horsetail Falls, where you actually go behind the waterfall), then back home before dinner.

For the next few months, we’ll leave the longer hikes to Lila. But in the meantime, we’re excited to start introducing li’l Luke to the Portland region’s sights and sounds.

A Waterfall Near Wahkeena Springs

The inspiration to travel can come from just about anywhere. It took a music video by a band from San Francisco to motivate me to take a hike near Portland. The video shows some incredible footage of the Columbia River Gorge, highlighting the beauty of the trees and river, even (and especially) beneath the clouds. The perspective gained by hiking high above the world below is breathtaking.

To follow in my footsteps, begin by walking up the Wahkeena Falls trail, then pass multiple waterfalls (pictured) on the ascent. You’ll be rewarded along the way by incredible vistas of the forest and gorge below. I highly recommend taking a map with you, such as this one, which simplifies the waterfall loops in the area, and allows you to design your own hike depending on time and fitness level. (more…)